News from "Rikki-tikki-tavi,"
31 July 2006
Fury Cove, Fitz Hugh SoundOf the 212 days that have so far slipped away this year, Rikki-tikki-tavi traveled on sixty-eight of those days, spent forty-one of the nights tied to a dock, with the remainder side-tied at anchor to Juniata, with whom we began buddy-boating at the end of March. Rikki-tikki has covered 1145 nautical miles, with many more miles remaining to slide beneath his hulls before we are back in the USA.
Our season of cruising the Central Coast of British Columbia must be cut a bit short. Rikki-tikki-tavi has been accepted to be a part of the 30th Port Townsend Wooden Boat Festival! The Festival runs September 8-10, so we will be heading back to Washington over the last three weeks of August. It is an honor to join the ranks of the many beautiful wooden boats that have participated in the Festival. We are thrilled and looking forward to the event with great anticipation. After the Festival, we will find a safe place for Rikki-tikki while we go back to Sacramento to see Nina's first grandchild. A beautiful boy, Merritt Maui, was born June 25 to Michael and Samantha Bailey. It has been difficult to be without communication for such long periods while cruising the farther reaches of BC, but we have been able to see photos of the baby on the internet and spoken to the new parents on Skype from Ocean Falls and from Shearwater, where we found that these two remote outposts recently began providing wireless internet access. We have found that cruising brings new challenges each day. Be it unpredictable weather, navigational problems and hazards, finding comfortable anchorages, or the hours required daily to hunt for food, prepare food, clean up after food, store food– the tasks necessary to keep the boat running well and ourselves content are innumerable. We find new interests taking the place of old. We are discovering what works for us and what doesn't. Above all, we are learning and enjoying life aboard Rikki-tikki-tavi. We find time to kayak the shorelines at low tide, discovering new creatures that we've never seen before. Clark fishes and sets traps for prawn and crab. He has caught more fish than we can eat so we release most of them. He brought a beautiful 33.5", 18# Chinook salmon back from fishing in the dinghy off Hakai Passage. We've found new and delicious ways to prepare all the wonderful seafood and have experimented with harvesting and eating seaweed. Bull kelp makes delicious chutney for our fish and the blades of winged kelp, which can only be found in areas with very fast moving water at a very low tide, is tasty fried. The rib in the center tastes like shitake mushrooms in soups and stir-fry. The interesting people we've met on other boats are always one of the best parts of cruising. Everyone has a great story to tell and the vessels they inhabit are all so very different. Living on water seems to attract those who enjoy solitude and wildness, relish the challenges of being self-sufficient in remote areas, and find reward in successfully handling the natural forces of weather and the ocean. We feel like such newcomers to the community but we look forward to experiencing at least a small number of the places these wonderful folks have travelled in their boats. Our travels so far this year have been inspiring, enlightening, tranquil, breathtaking, sometimes daunting and demanding– we are living Rikki-tikki-tavi's Adventures. The task of transcribing our experiences has become more taxing to us than all the other challenges we face each day. So, for now, we beg your understanding as we send this missive merely listing our Ports of Call. We promise more details of Rikki-tikki's adventures as soon as we have some long, uninterrupted time to write them down. Meanwhile, we are on the move nearly every day and are entwined in the adventure itself. Ports of Call January 1, 2006 to July 31, 2006 January 1-21 Montague Harbour, Galiano Island, BC Montague Harbour Marina January 21-23 Winter Cove, Saturna Island, BC 10.93 NM January 23 Return to USA across Boundary Pass 20.37 NM January 23-February 6 Friday Harbor, San Juan Island, WA Anchorage, Hong Kong Basin & 4 nights at marina. February 6 Mystery Bay 37.6 NM, cross Strait of Juan de Fuca February 7-March 26 Port Ludlow Inner Harbor 19.6 NM March 27 Port Madison 22.69 NM March 28-29 Poulsbo 9.03 NM March 30-April 2 Port Madison 9.01 NM April 3 Eagle Harbor 10.07 NM, dock behind "Bacchanal" April 4 Gig Harbor 27.77 NM, city dock April 5-6 Penrose Point State Park, Mayo Cove 16.08 NM April 7-9 Olympia, Swantown Marina 21.54 NM April 9-11 Jarrell Cove 19.23 NM April 12 Filucy Bay 16.74 NM April 13-14 Horsehead Bay, Carr Inlet 8.15 NM April 15-16 Gig Harbor 16.39 NM, city dock April 17 Port Madison 26.74 NM April 18-19 Port Ludlow Inner Harbor 23.7 NM April 20-23 La Conner 43.38 NM, through Deception Pass, city dock April 24-25 Friday Harbor, San Juan Island 30.42 NM, Hong Kong Basin barge April 26 Tsehum Harbour, Vancouver Island, British Columbia 19.83 NM, enter Canada April 27-29 Tod Inlet, Vancouver Island 13.82 NM April 30-May 1 Pirates Cove, De Courcy Island 35.81 NM May 2-3 Silva Bay, Gabriola Island 5.18 NM, through Gabriola Pass Rapids May 4-8 Smuggler Cove, Sechelt Peninsula 28.98 NM, cross Strait of Georgia May 9 Green Bay w/stop at Madeira Park, Pender Harbour 17.79 NM May 10-15 Princess Louisa Inlet Marine Park, dock & mooring 39.19 NM, Happy 2nd Birthday, Rikki-tikki-tavi! May 16-17 Harmony Islands 35.29 NM May 18-19 Ballet Bay 12.36 NM May 20-24 Drew Harbour, Quadra Island 49.49 NM, via Strait of Georgia, cruise around Mitlenatch Island May 25-28 Octopus Islands 14.02 NM, through Surge Narrows Rapids May 29-30 Handfield Bay, Cameleon Harbour, Sonora Island 17.17 NM, through Okisollo Channel May 31 Beaver Inlet 24.75 NM, through Green Point Rapids June 1 Port Harvey 40.05 NM, through Whirlpool Rapids June 2 Lagoon Cove 13.08 NM, through Chatham Channel & The Blow Hole, dock June 3-4 Potts Lagoon 8.8 NM June 5-6 Beware Cove 5.39 NM June 7 Dead Point Cove 1.82 NM June 8-9 Crease Island Cove 4.04 NM June 10-11 Waddington Bay 11.7 NM June 12 Echo Bay 6.53 NM, dock June 13-14 Laura Cove 5.53 NM June 15-16 Lady Boot Cove 10.05 NM June 17-18 Port McNeill 23.66 NM, marina June 19 Blunden Harbour 25.46 NM, Queen Charlotte Strait June 20-22 Fury Cove, Fitz Hugh Sound 49.42 NM, around Cape Caution June 23 Philip Inlet, Fitz Hugh Sound 9.08 NM June 24 Kwakume Inlet, Fitz Hugh Sound 13.41 NM June 25-27 Codville Lagoon, Fitz Hugh Sound 24.21 NM June 28-29 Ocean Falls 22.03 NM, dock June 30-July 1 Forit Bay, Gunboat Passage 14.44 NM July 2-3 Gunboat Lagoon Cove 4.03 NM July 4-5 Discovery Cove, Troup Passage 11.34 NM July 6-8 Nash Passage Cove, Spiller Channel 21.26 NM, through Troup Narrows & Bullock Channel July 9-13 Morehouse Bay, Chatfield Island, Return Passage 17.77 NM July 14-15 Shearwater & Whisky Cove, Denny Island 14.26 NM July 16 The Hunter Group, Lama Passage to Hunter Channel 8.5 NM July 17 Cultus Bay, Cultus Sound 11.16 NM July 18-19 McNaughton Group, Queens Sound 7.38 NM July 20 Kayak Cove, Queens Sound, Hunter Island 2.66 NM July 21-22 Spitfire Channel, West Cove 6.03 NM July 22 Hurricane Island, 1-boat nook on south end 4.54 NM July 23-24 Watt Bay, "Domestic Tranquility" cove, Hunter Island 6.46 NM July 25-27 Lewall Inlet, Stirling Island 9.54 NM, Clark caught 33.5" Chinook in Hakai Passage July 28 Pruth Bay, Calvert Island 9.98 NM July 29 Kwakume Inlet, Fitz Hugh Sound 11.11 NM July 30-31 Green Island Anchorage, Illahie Inlet, Fitz Hugh Sound 6.89 NM Harmony Islands, Jervis Inlet Our best to you all, Clark & Nina